“Food is a central activity of mankind and one of the single most significant trademarks of a culture.”
Mark Kurlansky
Talk street food and it throws up a myriad of colourful pictures in my head. It’s an amazing food group, one that goes deep into culinary cultures and is fast becoming haute cuisine, upmarket and constantly evolving. Yet, hit the streets and you find good old rustic appeal, preserved from the past, especially in the old city areas. You are instantly hit by a culture that time hangs on to. North India is no different; the streets are painted with colour and flavour, heat and dust.
Monkeys wander above while cattle languish below, spice sellers plonk themselves under umbrellas sheltered from the sweltering sun, pan walas sit in rows with an engaged clientele. Across the street, chicken tikkas sizzle over red hot coals! The camera works overtime, how much can you possibly capture and, then again, how much can you blog? As you see, Indian streets are ‘happening’, and Old Delhi holds that eternal charm.
The camera feeds hungrily at as you get transported to a different age. I feel compelled to share some street culture before I go further! A few more pictures … all taken on a day when Mr PAB and I decide to take a train ride into Old Delhi. Didn’t shop, just wandered around clicking, caught up in mixed emotions …
We found a water carrier opposite Jama Masjid selling chilled water in engraved silver handmade bowls, the water stored in a stitched and sealed whole goatskin {top left}. Handcarts piled high with plates and plates of neatly sliced pineapple {painstaking job that}… all open air but plenty of takers, dry fruits sold in small sacks, chocolate too{top right}. AMAZING!
In North India street food is a quintessential part of our tradition, not always healthy {read nice and deep fried delicious}, and holds eternal appeal. If you literally eat it off streets, with all the heat and dust thrown in, you are bound to be awarded with a Delhi belly, but there are ways of beating that!
When Asha, the Fork Spoon Knife gal wrote to me wondering if I would write her a street food themed guest post for her 3rd blogiversary, she heard a resounding YES! After much dithering, I decided on something I could bake, reflective of PABs central theme, and so made the most delicious Papdi / Whole wheat Crackers {if I may say so myself}. I also made some Bhel Puri from a trail mix of sorts! The crackers would make great bases for canapes too, and the trail mix is easily munched on its own.
Do get across to Street Food Month on Fork Spoon Knife for the rest of the post and recipes! Happy 3rd Blogiversary Asha!
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Street food has always been one of the cornerstones of Asian life. Street food and drink can often bring an insight into the history of the city’s people, the geography of the land and is one of the best ways to taste authentic local culture, believes
It’s an intrinsic part of India cuisine, delicious & mouthwatering, & no visit to India is quite complete unless you gather the courage to try some. Just make sure you choose the right place! The delhi-belly didn’t gain its colloquial notoriety for nothing, but the right choice will transport you back to gastronomical nirvana.
Join the hub & me as we roam the street & PEEP INTO THE WOK! Vegetarian options are generally based on fried food, which appear to blur boundaries of main meal, snack, appetizer etc. A kaleidoscope of flavours exist all in the same dish…sweet, sour, crisp, soft… & always the option of an extra spicy kick. The good thing is that with most non-marinated food on the street, you can customize the chili factor. Eat as you like. Treat it as a main meal or snack. To cover as much variety of street food we hit the street early. What do we find here…?
We come face to face with HOT SAMS, or samosas as the world knows them!! Samosas are typically Indian street food, & you will find fresh samosas being fried at every corner you go around, or at a ‘Halwai’ – an Indian sweet-maker, baker & deep-fryer! Usually stuffed with a mixture of boiled potatoes, peas, raisins, cashew nuts & cottage-cheese, given a mighty kick with Indian masalas/spices & some green chilies thrown in, samosas are deep-fried Indian pastry. They are very enjoyable indeed on a cold winter day, even better on a rainy day. This triangular pastry (a small turnover deep-fried pastry) is quite popular, & jostles for space in a line of long & illustrious street food called CHAAT. 
The original chaat is a mixture of potato pieces, crispy fried bread, gram bean and spices, but other popular variants included Aloo Tikkis (garnished with onion, coriander, hot spices and a dash of curd), bhel puri, dahi puri, panipuri, dahi vada, papdi chaat, and sev puri. There are common elements among these variants including dahi, or yogurt; chopped onions and coriander; sev (small dried yellow noodles); and chaat masala.
Our second wok stop is at a Chaat Wala, to eat Aloo Tikkis, traditional crisp fried potato patties, somewhat like rosti, but with a mildly spiced lentil filling!
The chef is obliging & his name is Suresh. He swears by ooodles of clarified butter / ghee, & proclaims that that’s where the real taste lies! He’s been doing this since he was 12, for the past 22 years. Oh boy! All that fat in the pan scares me, but he says he’s been eating & making this stuff forever & hasn’t put on or lost weight. New diet anyone? The Indian Chaatwalas Diet!!! YUM!
He expertly makes the patties like a machine, & gets on with his job. He has an infectious level of enthusiasm & is out to please. Walks us through the by lanes of Chandni Chowk as he lovingly fries the croquettes, presenting to us the most delicious ‘tikkis’ ever!
Each tikki is given TLC; there is uniformity in each piece! We choose our toppings, light & non-fussy, though you can go in for the works if you like!
Street food meals have no norms, so breaking away from the ‘end of the meal dessert’ tradition, we get irresistibly tempted to come to a grinding halt at the sweet shop. There are gulab jamuns, jalebis & gajar-ka-halwa up for grabs.
Jalebis are crisp swirls of batter, piped into hot oil, fried to golden brown perfection, & then immediately dunked into sugar syrup. The man literally doodles them onto hot oil, somewhat like
HOT! HOT! HOT! One peep within & I’m almost transported to Hansel & Gretel & the witches’ hot oven! Wokking into non-vegetarian street, it’s a happening place here. The tandoor has been fired up, & you can see rows upon rows of skewered delicacies. Here you have to no choice on the level of spices; they’ve been included in the marination, & some can be quite SPICY!!
We find a dazzling array of skewered meats & chunks of cottage cheese. There’s something for everyone – chicken tikka, reshmi kebabs, tandoori chicken, seekh kebab, burra kebab, paneer tikka…all waiting to be popped into a burning hot tandoor. If you want to move from snack to meal, then bread cannot be far behind. Expert hands fling thin roomali rotis in the air like handkerchiefs. They break off pieces of dough, roll out circles or triangles, & slap naans or tandoori rotis into searing hot ovens. The naans are liberally sprinkled with kalonji or onion seeds.
Give the sober naan a slathering of butter, & reach butter naan nirvana! How good can it get! If that’s not quite your calorie ridden scene, then try a lachcha paratha…layers & layers of thin pastry dough which are cooked to perfection in the hot tandoor, to reveal layers of paper thin flatbread.
So when you wok the street in gay abandon, leave the frills & fancies behind. No fancy china plates, no polished cutlery. Street food is often served on steel plates (reusable, unbreakable & can live a zillion years), on plastic ware, in paper bags, & sometimes in disposable & environment friendly plates & bowls made out of leaves. Anything goes! 



























